Bogu is the protective armour worn by a Kendo practitioner. Buying a set of bogu is a big decision because of the cost. You want to get good value for your money. This short article is a simple guideline and is in no way a comprehensive guide to but it will bring you up to speed so you are at least asking some of the right questions.
Most of us do not have the luxury of being able to handle Kendo items before we buy them. Read as much as you can on your supplier web site or catalogue. Ask other Kendoka. Phone or email the suppliers and ask your questions.
Most suppliers will allow you to return non-customised items if you ordered the wrong size or don't like the item. You might have to pay for shipping one-way or both ways so find out what your options are when you place your order.
Keikogi (Gi )
A Kendo uniform has a top and a bottom. This is the top portion. A Kendo Gi is usually a heavier than a Gi worn for other martial arts like Karate, Judo or Aikido for example. The material serves as a layer of padding.
Sizing
Before you compare prices between suppliers make sure that you know what size you will require. All suppliers will have a chart to consult that will give an idea as to which sizes would fit you. If you have a non-average body you may find that the 'rules of thumb' do not apply to you. Larger sizes may have a higher price.
Quality
You will hear some terms like "single layer" and "double layer" when referring to Kendo Gi. This means that the Gi is either made of one or two layers of material.
A "single layer" Gi costs a bit less usually and in hot weather they will be cooler than a "double layer" Gi.
A "double layer" Gi affords more protection to the wearer because of the extra layer of fabric. This is good because not all of your opponents will strike you strictly on the armoured portions of your torso and arms. A "double layer" Gi can often feel better to wear because layer next to your body can be made of a smoother fabric than the exterior layer.
Higher quality Gi will often have 'quilting' on the portion of the Gi that surrounds your hips. This is a nice touch. This is the portion of the Gi that gets tied under the belts of the Hakama and so any extra softness is welcome.
Most Gi are made from 100% cotton though some are becoming available with hi-tech fabrics made to wick water away from the skin and dry quickly. The cotton fabrics can be dyed with traditional indigo dye which not only looks nice but the dye is also a natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungicide.
Upon Receiving
When you first receive your Gi from your supplier try it on right away. Wear what you would normally wear under the Gi (Gentlemen, usually nothing. Ladies, to your own discretion). The sleeves should approach your Kote but should not even begin to cover the Kote. The bottom of the Gi should come down far enough so that your bare thigh (or more) is not exposed in the vents on either side of the hakama. You should be able to tie the Gi comfortably without the front looking like it might explode. The final test is to raise your arms to the front and over your head as if swinging a shinai and see how the shoulders fit.
Remember that your Gi will possibly shrink a bit once it is washed. The flexibility of the fabric will change over time and it should fit you better. If your Gi does not fit well you have a couple of options. Option one is to return it to your supplier and order a more appropriate size. The second option is to have the Gi tailored. If you have a non-standard body shape you may need to have the bottom of the Gi shortened, have the sleeves shortened or have the shoulders taken in.
Care
Read about the care instructions for your Gi. Wash them as recommended. Use a detergent made for delicate clothing. Never ever dry a cotton Gi in a tumble dryer as it will shrink (lots). Hang to dry. Never hang in direct sunlight as dark colours will fade quickly.
If your Gi is made of cotton and especially if it is dyed with indigo dye you will be amazed at how much colouring comes off of it. You should wash the Gi before you attend your next practice as per the suppliers instructions. Some dyes need to be washed with an acid (vinegar), others a base (sodium bicarbonate). Adding some salt to the water is usually a safe step as well. Rinse well in cold water afterward. Your skin will likely be turned blue your first few practices anyway but it won't be as bad as if you did not "set" the dye.
Lifetime
A Gi will wear out over time but you should get a few years out of one before you need to replace it. Usually a Gi will wear out across the shoulders due to the ties (himo) for the Do (breastplate) rubbing through the fabric. Ripping at the armpits can also occur over time. Fading of the fabric will also happen over the years.
Hakama
A Kendo uniform has a top and a bottom. This is the bottom portion. A Kendo Hakama is usually a heavier than a Hakama worn for other martial arts like Aikido for example. The material serves as a layer of padding to a point but mostly the thicker the fabric the better it looks on you.
Sizing
Before you compare prices between suppliers make sure that you know what size you will require. All suppliers will have a chart to consult that will give an idea as to which sizes would fit you. If you have a non-average body you may find that the 'rules of thumb' do not apply to you. Larger sizes may have a higher price.
Quality
Hakama are available in a range of sizes, denseness of fabric, fabrics and a limited number of colours. Prices vary accordingly. You will see that the manufacturers will rate a Hakama as being a #5000, #8000, #10000 and so on. These numbers refer to the density of the weave of the fabric. The lower the number the lighter the fabric, the higher the number the heavier the fabric.
Most Hakama traditionally are made from 100% cotton though some are available with non-natural fabrics. The cotton fabrics can be dyed with traditional indigo dye which not only looks nice but the dye is also a natural anti-bacterial and anti-fungicide.
The pleats of a Hakama are an important part of 'looking right'. By folding your Hakama and ensuring that the pleats are where they are supposed to be and that the Hakama is wrinkle-free you will assure a proper appearance. A lighter choice of fabric is nicer to wear in a hot dojo but the lighter fabrics don't hold the pleats as well as the heavier fabrics. A Kendoka with a lighter Hakama will have to be very diligent with the folding of his or her pleats. A Hakama of heavy material almost folds itself. Lighter fabric Hakama also tend to hang straight down from the hips while heavier fabric can stand out from the body a bit giving it a fuller appearance.
A Hakama has a stiff section in the area across the lower back. Manufacturers will use cardboard or plastic most often in this part. Sometimes the stiff insert can be removed during washing, other Hakama do not have this option. If it is cardboard that has been used you must be aware of this when washing the Hakama as it will tend to become wavy when it dries.
Upon Receiving
When you first receive your Hakama from your supplier try it on right away. Wear what you would normally wear under the Hakama and also wear your Keikogi. Tie the Hakama as you normally would. You may have your own preference but the 'waist band' of the Hakama should be above your hip bones at belly button height more or less. The proportions of your body and personal taste may dictate otherwise. The bottom hem of the Hakama should be angled with the front of the Hakama lower to the floor than the back. In the center, looking from the side, where your feet are if you stand normally, the hem should cross the sides of your legs at about ankle height.
Try walking normally, a little footwork and a little stomping in front of a mirror. Check to see that your feet are somewhat obscured by the front of the Hakama without it being too low/long such that your toes don't get caught in the hem as you move forward and you don't step on the hem with your heel as you move backward.
Remember that your Hakama will possibly shrink a bit once it is washed. If your Hakama does not fit well you have a couple of options. Option one is to return it to your supplier and order a more appropriate size. The second option is to have the Hakama tailored. If you have a non-standard body shape you may need to have the bottom of the Hakama shortened. A professional tailor will keep your hem even and your pleats looking fine.
Care
No matter what you are doing with your Hakama keep the pleats straight and folded. So, if you wash it, lay it flat in a bathtub with the pleats folded and wash it just like that. A little delicates detergent, some water and then walk on it to wash it.
When you dry it do not put it in a tumbling dryer. Instead hang it with the pleats folded and let it air dry. Do not iron your Hakama unless you are given no choice. Ironing will cause shiny spots on some fabrics. If you must iron your pleats put a light towel between the Hakama and the iron and use a pressing motion.
When you store it, store it either hung on a hanger with the pleats folded or completely folded.
An excellent tip is to sew a stitch through the top and bottom points of every pleat at its tip. This helps the fabric hold the pleat and will also assist you during the years in ensuring that your pleats do not 'drift'. Some Hakama can be purchased this way.
Lifetime
A Hakama will wear out over time but you should get a few years out of one before you need to replace it. The ties/belts on a Hakama can tear off with wear. Another common cause of sudden 'Hakama death' is catching a toe or heel on the hem and tearing a hole. Fading of the fabric will also happen over the years.
Bogu
Bogu is the armour worn by the Kendo practitioner. Bogu consists of Men (helmet), Kote (gauntlets), Do (breastplate) and Tare (groin protector). Most people purchase their first bogu as a set. The price is usually better this way than if you purchased each component separately and of differing qualities.
Sizing
Most suppliers will provide a guide on how to measure yourself so as to purchase the correct size. There are measurements to make for your hands for Kote, of your head for Men, of your chest for Do and of your waist for Tare.
Quality
Well, this is the big question isn't it? This short article could quickly become a book if it attempted to truly compare different materials, construction techniques and fashion styles for bogu. Here are some pointers:
In General
You will see ratings for bogu such as 5mm, 3mm, 2mm, 1.5bu etc.. This tells you how close together the stitching is on the Men, Kote and Tare. The closer together, the smaller the number. The smaller the number the stiffer the construction. Is stiffer better? That is a matter of opinion. The more stitches there are, the better the layers are held together, the longer the bogu will last. ...in theory.
Some people are of the opinion that too much stiffness sacrifices comfort. A stiff Men might not let you tilt your head to the side. It might chafe your neck or it might painfully pin your ears to your head. It will soften a little and will mould to your head over time.
A soft Men or Kote on the other hand might not provide as much protection as a stiffer model. Some people say that a softer Men or Kote actually do give better protection. That is a matter of personal opinion. The softer items however may feel more 'broken in' right away.
Adding more stitching increases the cost of the bogu. By coincidence the quality of the materials used also increases the cost of the bogu. Does the life of a set of bogu get extended by the closeness of the stitching or by the quality of the materials used? Can you get a set of bogu that has wider stitching but is made of high quality materials? You bet. Can you get a set of bogu with close together stitching made with lower quality materials? Sure.
Is foam rubber a better cushion than cotton? Is deer hair? You must decide.
Machine stitched or hand stitched, which makes a better product? Is the quality difference worth the money? You must decide.
What should you do? Read the suppliers descriptions. Ask senior members about their bogu experiences. Make your own decision. Spend as much as you can afford on a set of bogu. Whatever you buy will likely be great for a few years if not much much longer. Be at peace with your decision.
A Special Note About Young Kendoka
If you are a young person who is still growing, be aware that buying a set of bogu to fit you today might mean buying another set to fit you later. This is not to say that you should not wear bogu that you will 'have to grow into'. Buying any sports gear that is much too large can be dangerous especially equipment for a full contact martial art. If the gear needs to be a little larger to allow some growth that is fine but don't put a five foot tall fourteen year-old in gear made for a six foot tall twenty year-old. Use your best judgment.
A Special Note About Eyeglasses
On a side note, do you wear glasses? You should think about this now. The absolute best solution for you is not to wear glasses in your Men. This means that if you can do without them while practicing Kendo, great. Your second choice is to wear contact lenses. Your third best choice is to get special glasses made just for kendo, go for something held on with a headband or even mount lenses into the Men. Some people do have success wearing very tiny eyeglass frames.
Your last and least recommended option is to wear your everyday glasses. Glasses will fog up so use anti-fog products or "Use the force, Luke!". Your eyeglasses will also get moved around on your face because the Men will fit very tight along the sides of your face, that is to say IF your everyday glasses fit in there at all.
The Men
When choosing a Men be aware that a light weight Men is a good idea but not necessary. You can get Men grills (ganae) made out of steel or different light alloys. A lighter alloy means less weight for your neck.
There is some variance in the actual thickness of the men 'padding' and what it can be made of. The issue about how much you can feel getting hit on the top of the head is highly subjective. A thinner Men is likely stiffer due to a smaller stitch distance. So is thicker and softer better than thinner and stiffer? You decide. In the end it is the amount of air gap between the top of your head and the Men which may be more important to you, so a proper fitting men is important too. The ability to ignore a bit of pain is the subjective part of this decision.
A senior may recommend to you that the bogu they bought is the best and they never feel a thing. You might buy that bogu and be of the opinion that Men strikes really hurt. Is it the person? Is it the bogu? Do you just get hit more? It might be time to suck it up and accept the fact that getting hit on the head with a piece of bamboo can hurt. It might be a good suggestion to add a small pad to the inside top of your men (make one or buy one). You might want to look at your Kendo to see how it is possible that people are able to hit your Men so readily.
Some suppliers have some variance in the length of the Men futon that extend over the shoulders. Some people like them very long, some people do not. If you have a preference let your supplier know. The larger the Men the longer the futon usually.
The more you spend the better the materials and the more style the design has.
An often ignored quality point for the Men is the quality of the himo (strings). There is such a thing as a poor himo and a high quality himo and they are usually one of the first things you will wear-out on your bogu due to the friction of tying and un-tying them.
Upon Receiving
When you receive your Men and try it on, make sure you put the himo on the men, put a Tenegui on and wear it. Make sure it fits exactly right before it is too late to exchange it for a better size.
When you put your face in, make sure your chin is placed firmly into the chin holder. Tie the himo. The Men will be stiff so tie it hard, you may need someone to help you. With your chin firmly in the chin holder and the himo tied tight check that the grill is fully vertical from the side; you don't want it tilted up or down. There should be an air gap between the top of your head and the top of the men but not so great that you can slide a hand in between the two; maybe a centimetre or so is good for some people. Check that the back of your skull does not protrude out of the back of the men very far if at all.
If you decide to keep the Men you will be happier if you form it to the rough shape of your head before your first practice with it. Wet your hair, wet your tenegui, dampen the Men and wear it around the house until it dries a bit. Do that a couple of times making sure to occasionally retie the himo. Another alternative is to put some thing 'head shaped' into the men like a balled-up towel or mannequin head and then tie the himo tight and let it sit.
Care
Keep the grill nice and shiny. Never place your Men grill down on a floor. Always place the Men on the floor balanced on top of your two Kote as is traditional. When you pack the bogu into your bag do not face the grill outward against the wall of the bag. When inside the bogu bag usually the grill of the Men will face towards the inside of the Do, put some cloth between the grill and the back surface of the Do to prevent either making a mark on the other.
It is the custom often to put your used Tenegui inside the Men after practice during the final ceremony. Do not leave this in your Men against the grill if you have a steel grill. You will cause your grill to rust prematurely.
The sides of the Men will eventually become stained with salt from your sweat. The obvious remedy is to sponge the men off. Whatever you do, never get the hardened leather around the grill wet. Some people use steam cleaners or take the Men to a hockey arena and have the people who clean hockey equipment have a go. One home remedy is that has been suggested, oddly enough, is to sponge the salt stains off with Vodka?!?
Remove the himo from your men every now and again and wash them in cold water. Over time they will become very stiff with salt and 'other things'. This may make the fibers more brittle and the himo will wear out sooner.
The Kote
Kote are pretty important because getting hit on the wrist can be pretty painful for some people. The pain becomes less noticeable over time but if someone is going to complain about getting hit somewhere too hard it will usually be on the
A higher quality Kote in theory gives you more protection and a nicer looking Kote. Of all of the items that make up bogu, Kote will wear out the fastest, usually on the palms where your finger/thumb tips press. You will want a good fit for your hands and some sort of thick leather/leather-substitute for the palms. A nice padded knuckle cushion is welcome for receiving those less accurate strikes as well as tai-atari.
Pain endured when receiving a Kote strike is natural to a point. If it is excessive you might want to ask your opponents to be aware of your discomfort. When receiving Kote-uchi you can also decrease any discomfort by flexing the wrist to increase the air-gap between the kote and your forearm. It is also possible to purchase padding for underneath the Kote from suppliers as well.
The more you spend the better the materials and the more style the design has.
Kote can be repaired by your supplier (for a price) usually should they require it. Also check sports equipment repair places for your Kote repairs. They will not do the same quality job as an actual Kote repair service might but the price and timeframe may be more to your liking.
Upon Receiving
Upon receiving your Kote try them on. Amazingly, they are supposed to fit like a glove. Your hand should fit in snuggly but you should not have to force it. It may be necessary to loosen the himo on the Kote. Hold a shinai. When gripping the shinai your shouldn't feel like the Kote are going to need to stretch. The greatest portion of the palm of your hand should be covered by the palm of the Kote although it is ok if the 'heel' of your hand is not quite covered.
The palms of the Kote will stretch over time. The first place to wear out on your Kote will be at some of the finger tips and thumb tips. If these locations feel really really tight on the first day you might be speeding your way to an early patch job.
Care
Some Kote have more leather on them than cloth. Some are mostly cloth. Whatever yours are made of you may or may not need to deal with salt stains over time. See the section regarding this topic for the Men.
The palms of the Kote are going to wear out over time. Watch for small holes and either get them patched with some leather or have the whole palm replaced. Ask your supplier about any repair service they may offer and keep that in mind because they probably do a great job. Other choices to consider are to have a local leather repair place or hockey glove repair place have a look.
One problem with the Kote palms is that the leather gets stiff with all that sweat and salt. Then when they are all dry and hardened and you put them on you can cause it to crack prematurely by forcing them to bend. There are many leather products out there that may help. What you do NOT want is to use a product that is oily, waxy or water repellant. You just want keep the leather supple. You don't want to have either your fingers sliding around inside the Kote or have the shinai sliding around.
Do not use saddle soap or other such products for boots and heavy leather gear. Some people suggest lanolin, tea tree oil or even a greaseless hand lotion. The idea is that it should be something that will not make your kote greasy and that you won't mind absorbing into your skin.
The Do
There are two questions to ask when purchasing a Do. The first question is, "Bamboo or not bamboo?". The second question is, "How cool should it look?". Suffice it to say that your Do should fit you properly but past that any Do you buy will protect you no matter what it is made out of. Make sure you measure properly. Women with larger bust measurements might want to take a special interest in asking the supplier about additional measuring to assure proper protection.
Bamboo is the most expensive. They are rated by the number of bamboo slats that have been laminated together to construct the shiny lower portion. The higher the number, the higher the cost. Sometimes those extra slats have been added as a higher quality plus. Sometimes you just need an enormous Do and they had to add more pieces of bamboo in order to make it large enough.
The next step down is fiberglass or other durable man-made material molded into what is referred to as "bamboo-look". Basically it looks like it is made of bamboo but it is not. Because of this the construction is heavier and the material is thicker than the most basic models.
The most basic models are made out of fiberglass and while thinner than the "bamboo-look" models, provide good protection as well except perhaps for the most savage strikes to the outside most edges. These models may flex a bit with the strike and may strike you in the side. This is where a proper measurement can be important when purchasing.
To the untrained eye all three types of Do look the same while a Kendoka is wearing them.
You can spend a lot of money on a nice Do. There are colours and embroidery, leather work and stylish additions. After a certain point you are extending past what is functional and entering into the realm of high fashion. You might be intimidating people on the tournament floor with your amazing Do, or you might be encouraging people to seek it out as a target. :)
Upon Receiving
Upon receiving your Do try it on and tie the himo. Wear your Keiko Gi, Hakama, Tare and Men. It should fit over your torso and have an air gap on either side of maybe two to five centimetres. You should not be able to have the Do hold onto you without the himo being tied. Your Do will likely shrink and expand with temperature and humidity. If it is tight now, it will be tighter on a cold dry day.
A Do is not supposed to be tied so tight that it is a second skin. It should be able to float about a little. The bottom himo just needs to be tied, it doesn't need to be taut across the back. The top himo that cross in the back are what really hold the Do on you and the Do should more or less just hang on your shoulders. You can adjust the height of the Do buy adjusting the size of the bows you use on those top himo.
When viewed from the front there should not be any of your body protruding from either side of the bottom of the Do. If someone is hitting the Do on the extreme outside edge the shinai should not be able to hit you directly.
When viewed from the side the rear edges of the bottom of the Do should wrap around the sides of the body but not protrude past the body.
The Do should cover you from near the top of the flaps on your Tare to just under the Tsuke on the Men. Depending on your body type and size of Do that are available you may need to adjust the Do up or down or choose a different size. If you have too much space down around the Tare you will get caught with a "low Do" that might knock the wind out you a little. If you have too much space between the top of your Do (Mune) and your Tsuke on the Men you run the risk of receiving the occasional (more than normal) shinai kensen mark on your chest.
Women should check that their breasts are adequately covered by the top of the Do from side to side. Wear whatever your would wear under your Gi and hold a shinai in kamae. Remember that for the most part your arms will be in front of you. There is some variance in the width of the top of the Do (Mune) from model to model, make sure your choice is appropriate.
Care
People will hit your Do and over time this will leave the odd mark dull the finish or wear it away. A little soap and then oil or wax will help you retain the shine and remove some scuffs.
The leather and embroidery on the top of the Do (Mune) can be appropriately cared for.
When you pack your Do in your bogu bag with the rest of your gear, wrap the Tare (upside down and inside out) across the front of the Do and tide the Do himo across the Tare to hold it there. This will prevent any scratches on the front.
When inside the bogu bag usually the grill of the Men will face towards the inside of the Do, put some cloth between the grill and the back surface of the Do to prevent either making a mark on the other.
Over time the Do himo (strings) may break and need to be replaced. The same can be said for the loops that the himo are attached or tied through. Remove the himo from time to time and wash them in cold water in order to stop them from becoming stiff and brittle with salt and dirt.
The Tare
The Tare provides the necessary functions of protecting your groin, thighs and hips from harm as well as holding your Zekken (name marker).
From a functional standpoint one Tare is likely as good as another. From a looks and quality standpoint, the more you spend the better it looks the longer it may last.
Tare are sold with the same stitch sizing scale as the Men and Kote are. The same rules apply. Closer stitches means more stiffness and possibly longer life for the Tare.
A quality that you will see mentioned is the number of "lines" on the Tare. This is the number of embroidered lines of cording on the top of each flap. The higher the number, the more you often pay but other than looks there is no advantage to having more "lines".
Upon Receiving
Upon receiving your Tare put on your Keikogi and Hakama and try it on. The Tare should be tightly tied with the belt circling you just above the pelvis.
If when you pull the belts tight and the end of the Tare wrap all the way around and touch in the back it is way too big. You should be able to tighten it as hard as you can and the ends still shouldn't come together in the back.
The outermost flaps on the Tare should extend around to the sides of your thighs to a degree, at least when viewed directly from the front. If you can still see leg or hip from the front then you can expect those things to get hit now and again with a shinai.
Care
The only thing that wears out on a Tare as a rule are the belts which hold it around your waist. They tend to tear off where they attach to the actual Tare. A sports equipment repair service or shoe repair service can re-affix the belt although it of course gets a little shorter each time. The top of the tare will wear over time as the bottom of the Do rubs against it.